Snow and Weisbaden Afternoon

Everything is blanketed in white. A thin blanket to be sure, but one that turns the world monochromatic. It started snowing yesterday and apparently snowed more during the night. I think winter has arrived despite the fact it doesn't officially start for another three weeks or so.

Sunday afternoon I went to Weisbaden on the bus and then walked to Torsten's and Katrin's apartment. Their home is delightful, full of warm colors, windows looking out over rooftops to distant hills. Gemutlisch.... Katrin cooked a wonderful mean of potatoes and spicy meat with delicious stuffed, baked apples for desert. All were special dishes from here. I got to meet Jakob who is a very smiley, darling little guy about 3-4 months old. He and I got along very well. He is super friendly. He looks a lot like his father. After talking and visiting we went out and wandered around Weisbaden, saw the hot springs (about 60 degrees C) a homeless person camping out on a heating vent nearby, the strange monument that is being built to signify the location of a Jewish Synagogue destroyed in WWII, the incredible theatre, casino, and hotel where people came in the 1800s to drink the waters from the hot springs. A Christmas market was in full swing and an outdoor ice skating rink. We drank glugwein and walked along the very expensive shopping street where the high faluting and elegant 'upper crust' of Weisbaden shop. Torsten, Kristen, and Jakob (who was happily asleep bundled up in his snow suit and bed of sheep fleece in his stroller) helped me find the right bus to head back to Mainz on. A truly wonderful afternoon.

Their home is on the topmost floor of their building. Many, many, many stairs to reach. Torsten told me about a lady who passed about a year ago, but who walked up the stairs to her apt each day when she was 90 plus. Hmmmm. Maybe I SHOULD look for a place with stairs when I get back??????

Markets, a Creche, Glugwein, and Roman Ruins -- Pre Weihnacht in Mainz

Marion, Weina and I went on an adventure yesterday. Les petites Chouxs are by a gigantic cabbage at the flea/farmer's market close to our dwelling.

Once we arrived in the city center, it was clear that Christmas is around the corner. Today is the first day of Advent (I am told).

At the Weihnachts Markt in the plaza by the dome (cathedral), one of the first stalls we visited had many different kinds of glugwein (hot mulled cider) and many customers. Marion bought us a round -- with raspberry in it. Great for chilled bodies and frozen fingers.

There are perhaps as many as 80 little wooden stalls with a wonderful variety of potential presents, viands, and decorations. Each is numbered so that if you see something you want you can always go back and find the stall later.

It snowed in the morning, but only a few places were slick with ice or snow. No-one lets the weather stop them from their enjoyment.

Young and old simply bundle up or are bundled up and go out for activities. Again, the pedestrian friendly city center encourages a sense of community and intense activity.

We visited a creche set up by Saint Boniface right outside the cathedral. Marion said that in France the baby Jesus is not put in the cradle until Christmas Eve.

This baby Jesus looks like he's been around a while. I'd say he is at least 50 years old if not more.
Still happily waving his fat little arms and being adored by his parents and all and sundry.

In keeping with the spirit of joy, I happily drank the rest of my glugwein......

At noon sharp there was meditation in the cathedral. A few words by the priest and organ music.

The chair, like these, was cushioned and set on the heating vent. How lovely to rest and thaw out toes and fingers will contemplating how good life was at that moment and all the friend, family, and other good things in my life that I have and can be thankful for.


Lest you get the idea that all city center is "quaint", a simple 180 degree turn from the Weihnachts Markt shows another aspect of downtown.

Still there are the 'restored' buildings. Some like this, bedecked in Christmas wreaths and other decorations.

These little buskers were doing quite well with the Saturday, holiday crowd. Her flute playing was quite good, especially considering her fingers must have been stiff from the cold.

These, were playing and singing lovely music, but weren't doing as well financially. Maybe they had just begun.

While looking for a restaurant, we came across a gigantic candle outside one. We went on and found a delightful, cozy, two storied restaurant with fantastic food. Weina had pig knuckle, Marion, veal cutlets, and me steak, onions, and pommes frittes. Ummm, Ummmm, Good.

Marion, working on her PhD in archaeology took us to the museum in the Roman Passage that shows the remains of part of the old Roman City here. Mainz obviously has an incredibly long history.

"Give me oil in my lamp, keep it burning. Give me oil in my lamp, I pray. Give me oil in my lamp, keep it burning. Keep it burning 'til the break of day." Hymn I leaned as a child. These are tiny oil lamps found in the dig. Amazing how many eons people have used oil lamps.

Below is an example of writing found on one of the artifacts in the dig. THE DAY AND THE COMPANY WERE GREAT FUN.

According to the guide book, this is a 'crucifixion group (1518)...for the burial monument of Hans Backoffen and his wife. I suspect the 'group' dates from later... It is an amazing wooden piece!!!!
People have been worshipping in and on the site of the Mainz cathedral since 975. During that time there has, of course, been additions, restorations, and some rebuilding. The sounds of the bells on Sunday for worship and the acoustics, organ, and music within the cathedral are "devine". During WWII 80% of Mainz was leveled by bombs. The allies were aiming for the cathedral, but due to weather conditions, mostly missed it and wiped out the majority of the city center next to it.... WAR....
The city center is paved with cobblestones (How do women with spike heels ever manage??) and is totally pedestrian friendly. The street pattern is true to that of the area before bombing and so is a fascinating maize. Many/most of the buildings there were restored to their original styles. So, one doesn't know if she is looking at an 'authentic' building or a 'recreation'. Regardless, it is a wonderful place to wander, shop, and eat. It TRULY is a city center!!

Time is passing

There are still a few leaves clinging to the branches of the trees, but we are having our first snows. Marion (an archaeologist from France) and Weina (a physicist from China) and I are going to go down to the Christmas Market by the cathedral today.


Below was my first glimpse of Mainz in Nov. My first day here was a glorious, sunny autumn day. My room is in the Sportshaus. Maybe 8x10 with a shared bathroom and shower. Each floor has a common kitchen. This is a great place to live as it is only a 5 or 6 minute walk to the building that houses the Geography Institute. There is a sportsbar/restaurant with great food downstairs -- open during the week nights. I can catch the bus on the street that goes by the other side of the track. People from all over the world stay here while they train. Left-over rooms are available as interim homes while people like me, or new graduate students from other countries find places to live. We have people from France, Brazil, China, Russia, England, Mali, Senegal, and Viet Nam. That's only the few that I've spoken with. Great atmosphere and incredibly interesting!

Sunny Sunday

I have been in Mainz nearly two weeks now. I feel settled in. I haven't done the exploring I want and need to do yet. Two shopping trips to the city center is about it. This lack is not due to opportunity, but rather to trying to navigate a new language, new university, new lodging, getting over jet lag and a cold, and working on the presentation I'm to give on Thursday evening. Excuses, excuses, excuses.

Today is incredibly sunny.... second such day since I've been here. Looks like it might last the entire day. It's pretty cold here (for me). On Sunday's the cathedral and church bells toll. Magnificant.

I went to the 'farmers' market by the cathedral yesterday and wandered into the building which has accreted over the past 1000 years. Solemn, celestial scale, dark with dim light from leaded stain glass windows and with soft points of light from remembrance candles.

Everyone has been most kind and friendly here and I've had an incredible amount of laughter with Stefan and his friend Torsten.